Evo Tuning Services

We offer tuning services with Speed Density (Evo V-IX) and MAF tuning on Evo V-X. You can have a single, dual or Flex Fuel (Evo X only at the moment) tune. 

Road Tuning Process

  • Fill out the tuning/modification form and agreement.
  • Please read and do the Road/Remote Tuning Requirements. Reading and doing this will save you time and money. Unfortunately, tuning cannot fix mechanical, electrical or fuel problems. Your car needs to be in great condition to tune.
  • We'll schedule a slotted time to tune. Please set aside 3-4 hours to tune (a dual tune may be a couple of hours longer). 
  • If we need to install parts or repairs it will be longer than the 3-4 hours stated above. 
  • You do not need a flashing cable or wide band if coming in person. 

Click here for Mod form

Remote Tuning Process

  • Fill out the tuning/modification form and agreement.
  • Purchase a tune from the Shop page.
  • Please read and do the Road/Remote Tuning Requirements. Reading and doing this will save you time and money. 
  • Make sure your EvoScan is reading correctly. Common issues are boost and wide band. Please use a serial to USB cable for logging AFR versus wiring to the ECU. It won't read correctly in EvoScan being wired to the ECU.
  • We'll schedule a slotted time to tune. Please set aside 3-4 hours to tune (a dual tune may be a couple of hours longer). We're happy to help set up software if needed. We can remote access your laptop and set it all up. 
  • During the tune we'll start logging certain things in a certain order. 
  • The logs will be analyzed and a calibrated tune will be sent back to you via email. 
  • We simply repeat this process until the tune is perfect!

FAQs

1. Can I get a base ROM to get my car moved, just to start it, etc. without paying?
Sorry, but the base ROM has many years of tuning behind it. The tune begins with the base ROM.  


2. Do I need a Wideband Sensor to tune?
Yes and No. Yes, if we are doing a remote tune. If doing a road or dyno tune at my location, I have a stand alone wideband. I prefer the Innovate Motorsports wide band.
 

3. What do I need for a Speed Density tune?
Here are the items you'll need for a Speed Density Conversion:
Prefer OmniPower 4 bar MAP sensor (up to 43 PSI), but can use other 3 bar up to 7 bar.
Remove MAF sensor (Evo X needs the MAF plugged in, but removed from air intake)

PDP SD Tune
That's it. The next items are optional, but highly recommended.
Replace air intake with a SD intake kit.
Larger BOV (Tial Q or TurboSmart Race Port VTA). You can also keep it recirculated if keeping the MAF air intake.
If in a country that doesn't have the fuel temp sensor then you'll need a GM IAT.
LMK if you need prices for the above items. 


4. What is the best Boost Controller method and what do I need for ECU Boost Control and which is the best EBCS?
I like a 3 port ECU Boost control as well as a MBC for select set ups. I'm not a fan of EBC standalone Electronic Boost Controllers. For ECU Boost control you'll need to install a 4 bar map sensor (3 and 5 bar can be used too, but I prefer the 4). Install a 3 port BCS or Pierburg. You can get either a PDP 3 port I sell or a Grimmspeed 3 port or a Peirburg. 


5. What do I need to convert to E85?
You'll need a larger fuel pump and larger injectors. How much larger depends on your mods and goals. If using a stock turbo to  FP Green or equivalent you can get away with a Walbro 255 and 1100cc injectors. Larger turbos will need a larger fuel system. I  recommend researching or talking to your shop. I can make suggestions too. 


6. What mods, fuel system, turbo, etc. should I get?
While I do a fair amount of different set ups, there is not a one size fits all. This is where the individuality of the owner/modder comes into  play. There are a lot of information/misinformation on forums and tech articles on the web. I personally don't believe everything I read. I believe  maybe 1/4 of it. Someone may say, "Brand X Mod" is the bomb and here are the dyno results to prove it." Sounds good, but they  don't usually update if the product fails or had to do a lot of adjustments or modifying to get it to work. I've also seen products fail  and the customer speaks up and is destroyed by faithful customers of "Brand X". 
Do your homework. Talk to the guys at the track. Talk to people who are not trying to sell you something.  I'm more than happy to give you my opinions too. Going with what's proven is always simple too. I kind of like to try things that no one has done before, but that's just me. Doing so makes for a lot of modding the mods. 

I also recommend doing a search. Type "Evo X E85 dyno" or whatever you're looking for and hundreds of results will come up with a complete shopping list of the exact parts they used. Rule of thumb, if it seems unbelievable it probably is. 

 
7. Can I ride along during a live tuning session?
I prefer to tune alone so I can concentrate during this complex process. I recommend dropping the car off earlier than the appointment as I may be able to get to it sooner.
 

8. Can you start tuning and see if that fixes my issues with my car?
Yes, for sure. However, it typically takes 3-4 hours to tune. If it goes beyond 4 hours due to mechanical issues/wiring issues/bad fuel/bad WB sensor/ etc. then it's $100 per hour thereafter.

Tunes can't change on their own. So if it was running fine and suddenly it doesn't then I'd look at what was changed or start diagnostics. 


9. Should I do a MAF or Speed Density Tune?
That's an extremely misunderstood topic. I recommend SD for almost all tunes if your MAF is a restriction like on the Evo's up to the IX's, X's aren't a restriction. If you have an Evo 5-9, then there are very few reasons I'd recommend a MAF tune. The first would be if the rules for your racing class regulates the parts to remain stock. For example, the WRC doesn't allow you to remove the MAF as well as many other restrictions. The second reason would be that you're returning it back to stock, but want a little more performance than a stock tune and boost levels. Other than that I highly recommend a SD tune.  


10. How long will tuning take? 

It generally takes 3-4 hours to tune a single fuel tune. A dual will be close to 6-8 hours depending on the car. Getting the fuel pure for the next tune is time consuming and I have a way I've been doing it with success (1-2 hours). 

Road/Remote Tuning Requiremnets

You and I want the best tune possible. In order to do that the car should be in optimal condition to get the best possible tune. 


1. Tests

At the minimum a boost leak, exhaust leak and compression tests should be done before the tune, annually and whenever you feel power is down or something else is wrong. I can do these for you if you bring the car to me before I tune your car for $150. 


2. Regular Maintenance

Fresh engine oil, up to date maintenance need to be done before tuning. I've seen cracked timing belts, old oil, fouled plugs, original drivetrain fluids, no drivetrain fluids, bad sensors, CEL on, exhaust in the cab, fuel leaks, bad wiring, etc in cars that I was told is ready to be tuned. 


3. Competent Installs

Pay us or another professional to install your parts unless you're competent in doing so. These cars are not the cars to do a first time install. 99% of the cars that I'm given to tune that are "ready" are not ready and need repairs. Fuel system components are not something to take lightly, yet this is the most common area of mistakes. Poor installs can cause serious damage to car, injury and/or death. 


4. Safety

Please have your car road worthy. If your wheel bearings are bad, then I'm not going to tune it. If you have missing or broken wheel studs or lug nuts, then please get those fixed. If your tires are dry rotted please get new tires. If you have no seat belts or brakes please fix. I'll be doing WOT pulls. All of the above I have had brought to me to tune. 


5. Road Legal

You need current registration and insurance or temporary tags unless tuning on a dyno. 


6. Specifics

  • Evo 4-9 need fresh plugs with a gap of 0.022" for 22 psi or less, 0.020 for 23-25 psi and 0.018" for 26+ psi. Stock plugs for Evo IX's and NGK BPR7ES or BPR8ES depending on build for Evo 4-8. 
  • COP ignition systems, like SpoolinUp, are highly recommended on E85. 
  • If using an IWG then preload the arm 1/2 eyelet.  
  • IWG and EWG have the correct springs in there that equal 60% of the max boost you want. eg. You want 30 psi then you need a 18+ psi spring. Don't use 30 psi of springs as I prefer to drop boost as a fail safe. 
  • Engine Oil in stock block see your manual. Synthetic oils are recommended. For built motors, check with your engine builder.