Evo Tuning Services

We offer tuning services with Speed Density (Evo VII-X) and MAF tuning on Evo VII-X. You can have a single, dual or Flex Fuel (Evo X only at the moment) tune. 

• Fill out the tuning/modification form and agreement.
• Please read and do the Road/Remote Tuning Requirements. Reading and doing this will save you time and money. Unfortunately, tuning cannot fix mechanical, electrical or fuel problems. Your car needs to be in great condition to tune.
• We'll schedule a slotted time to tune. Please set aside 4 hours for a single tune, 6 hours for a dual tune and 7 hours for a flex fuel tune.
• If we need to install parts or repairs it will be longer than the 3-4 hours stated above. 
• You do not need a flashing cable or wide band if coming in person. 

• Fill out the tuning/modification form and agreement.
• Purchase a tune from the Shop page.
• Please read and do the Road/Remote Tuning Requirements. Reading and doing this will save you time and money. 
• Purchase EvoScan from evoscan.com. For Evo VII, VIII & IX get the EvoScan 1.3R Cable here. For the Evo X get the Tactrix 2.0 cable here. 
• Make sure your EvoScan is reading correctly. Common issues are boost and wide band. Please use a serial to USB cable for logging AFR versus wiring to the ECU. It won't read correctly in EvoScan being wired to the ECU. For AEM WB use the UEGO. The X series can work, but you need another pin installed into the back of the gauge (see user's manual). For either AEM WB gauges you'll need a serial cable. You can purchase one here. For the AEM and Innovate WB gauges you'll need a USB to RS232 DB9 serial cable. The Ugreen on Amazon works great for Window 10 and earlier. Testing different cables for Windows 11. Ugreen isn't compatible with Windows 11.  
• We'll schedule a slotted time to tune. Please set aside 4 hours to tune for a single tune, 6-8 hours for a dual tune and 8+ hours for a flex fuel tune.  We're happy to help set up software if needed. We can remote access your laptop and set it all up. 
• During the tune we'll start logging certain things in a certain order. 
• The logs will be analyzed and a calibrated tune will be sent back to you via email. 
• We simply repeat this process until the tune is perfect!

1. Can I get a base ROM to get my car moved, just to start it, etc. with partial payment or without paying?
Sorry, but the base ROM has many years of tuning behind it. The tune begins with the base ROM.  

2. Do I need a Wideband Sensor to tune?
Yes and No. Yes, if we are doing a remote tune. I recommend Zeitronix ZT2/ZT3, Innovate or AEM UEGO (30-4110). Some WB will not log with EvoScan Logging software that we'll be using. If doing a road or dyno tune at my location, I have a stand alone wideband. I prefer the Zeitronix wide band.
 

3. What do I need for a Speed Density tune?
Here are the items you'll need for a Speed Density Conversion:
Prefer OmniPower 4 bar MAP sensor (up to 43 PSI), but can use other 3 bar up to 7 bar.
Remove MAF sensor (Evo X needs the MAF plugged in, but removed from air intake)

PDP SD Tune
That's it. The next items are optional, but highly recommended.
Replace air intake with a SD intake kit.
Larger BOV (Tial Q or TurboSmart Race Port VTA). You can also keep it recirculated if keeping the MAF air intake.
If in a country that doesn't have the fuel temp sensor then you'll need a GM IAT.
LMK if you need prices for the above items. 

4. What is the best Boost Controller method and what do I need for ECU Boost Control and which is the best EBCS?
I like a 3 port ECU Boost control as well as a MBC for select set ups. I'm not a fan of EBC standalone Electronic Boost Controllers. For ECU Boost control you'll need to install a 4 bar map sensor (3 and 5 bar can be used too, but I prefer the 4). Install a 3 port BCS or Pierburg. You can get either a PDP 3 port I sell or a Grimmspeed 3 port or a Peirburg. 

5. What do I need to convert to E85?
You'll need a larger fuel pump and larger injectors. How much larger depends on your mods and goals. If using a stock turbo to  FP Green or equivalent you can get away with a Walbro 255 and 1100cc injectors. Larger turbos will need a larger fuel system. I  recommend researching or talking to your shop. I can make suggestions too. 

6. What mods, fuel system, turbo, etc. should I get?
If you appreciate us helping you pick parts and diagnose issues with current set up please show your appreciations by purchasing from us. We may be less/more or the same price as elsewhere. We understand wanting the best price, but you should purchase from the business helping you choose products and you should get advice from the places you purchases from. Time is valuable, so please take that into consideration when choosing where to buy from.  

While I do a fair amount of different set ups, there is not a one size fits all. This is where the individuality of the owner/modder comes into  play. There are a lot of information/misinformation on forums and tech articles on the web. I personally don't believe everything I read. I believe  maybe 1/4 of it. Someone may say, "Brand X Mod" is the bomb and here are the dyno results to prove it." Sounds good, but they  don't usually update if the product fails or had to do a lot of adjustments or modifying to get it to work. I've also seen products fail  and the customer speaks up and is destroyed by faithful customers of "Brand X". 
Do your homework. Talk to the guys at the track. Talk to people who are not trying to sell you something.  I'm more than happy to give you my opinions too. Going with what's proven is always simple too. I kind of like to try things that no one has done before, but that's just me. Doing so makes for a lot of modding the mods. 

I also recommend doing a search. Type "Evo X E85 dyno" or whatever you're looking for and hundreds of results will come up with a complete shopping list of the exact parts they used. Rule of thumb, if it seems unbelievable it probably is. 

 
7. Can I ride along during a live tuning session?
Tuning alone is preferred so I can concentrate during this complex process. I do enjoy the company, but probably best to ride along once the tune is done.
 

8. Can you start tuning and see if that fixes my issues with my car?
Yes, for sure. However, it takes 4 hours for a single tune, 6 hours for a dual tune and 7 hours for a flex fuel tune (about 2 hours extra for the X due to the process of switching fuels). If it goes beyond due to mechanical issues/wiring issues/bad fuel/bad WB sensor, online diagnostics, bad relays, etc. then it's $100 per hour thereafter.

Tunes can't change on their own. So if it was running fine and suddenly it doesn't then I'd look at what was changed or start diagnostics. 

9. Should I do a MAF or Speed Density Tune?
That's an extremely misunderstood topic. I recommend SD for almost all tunes if your MAF is a restriction like on the Evo's up to the IX's, X's aren't a restriction up to 850 whp (so far, but SD looks super cool on a sidewinder). If you have an Evo 5-9, then there are very few reasons I'd recommend a MAF tune. The first would be if the rules for your racing class regulates the parts to remain stock. For example, the WRC doesn't allow you to remove the MAF as well as many other restrictions. The second reason would be that you're returning it back to stock, but want a little more performance than a stock tune and boost levels. Other than that I highly recommend a SD tune.  

10. How long will tuning take? 

It takes 1.5 hours for the pre-tune inspection, plus the time to fix issues if there are any. It takes @ 4 hours for a single tune, 6-8 hours for a dual tune and 8+ hours for a flex fuel tune (assuming car is 100% ready for tuning) (about 2 hours longer for a X for a dual or flex tune). With the X's getting the fuel pure for the next tune is time consuming and I have a way I've been doing it with success (1-2 hours).

11. When tuning has begun: Is it done yet? When will it be done? I need it a certain day, I can't wait (when the car wasn't brought in ready for tuning).

This is a tough one. The car will be done as soon as it's done is the reality. I prefer to do the best possible tuning, but I can't do that when there's a huge boost leak, faulty part, bad install, etc. Most likely the customer did the best they could preparing and thought the car was ready, but in reality is it's not ready. Those repairs take time. I try to update customers as things are happening. It can be frustrating for both parties. Most of the time when I constantly get asked when will it be done, I take a 10 minute break from diagnostics, repairs and/or tuning to regroup. If it goes into the next day, there is no benefit to me. I have to move the next day's customer around to get your car ready and tuned. I'm delighted to fix things and get a great tune on the car, but when the customer is upset that it's taking longer than expected then it's rough on both parties. In a perfect world, for my business, the car would be in and out in 1 day. I must add, that 99% of my customers are grateful that I repair and get the car ready and get the best tune.   

12. Why are you trying to sell me stuff? 

I stock most common parts that I run in to issues with, such as injectors, pumps, map sensors, BOV, boost controllers, spark plugs, relays, etc. I make very little money on parts, but it's much appreciated when customers buy from me. I try to give my customers the best possible price allowed. Some parts, like OEM I lose money, but I rather have it here ready to go than to postpone the tune waiting on parts to come in. 

13. The tune is off/changed. Can you fix it? 

Tunes can't change without being flashed. In it's simplest form, it's kind of like a calculator. The calculator can't one day start changing math. Aside from damage to the calculator, the program will remain the same for the life of it. It's the same with the tune. If something changes in the driving behavior, codes, etc. it's most likely something mechanical, electrical, fuel, etc. changed. I've had someone threaten me with legal action and was going to write bad reviews if I didn't look at it. Of course I offered to look at it, but not if they're going to threaten me. When I started diagnostics and logs I discovered a connector came off. It was actually damaged and I had to zip tie it on. That was it. They were happy again. Tunes cannot change. It's 100% of the time something else. There are instances where the customer drives dramatically different than I do and some areas of the tune may need to be adjusted after it's noticed (usually a day or two later). I'm more than happy to adjust that. 

You and I want the best tune possible. In order to do that the car should be in optimal condition to get the best possible tune. 

1. Boost/Exhaust Leak and Compression Tests

• Boost Leak Test (NOT A SMOKE TEST) is important to do before tuning and whenever a drop in power or drivability is noticed. Boost leaks can cause a vacuum leak, but more importantly a boost leak under pressure (boost). Both can cause problems, but the most damaging is the turbo can over spin. If trying to reach a target boost that is known safe for a particular turbo with a boost leak, it may cause the turbo to prematurely fail. If 28-30 psi is safe for your particular turbo and there's a boost leak, then the turbo may actually be spinning faster than it can handle to reach those boost targets. There may be no drivability indicators that a boost leak is present as it would happen under boost. Even under boost there may not be loss in boost as the turbo may be spinning faster to get to the target boost. A boost leak test will reveal where the leaks are to be fixed prior to tuning. Fixing after tuning can cause engine failure or fuel/boost cut. Recommend going up to 20% more psi than desired boost for the test, eg. desire 30 psi then test at 36 psi. 
• Exhaust Leak Test is also important to do before tuning to get the best performance out of the turbo. Exhaust leaks pre-turbo will allow energy to escape before applying that energy to sping the turbo. The result is a slower spooling turbo and less power do the inefficiency of the exhaust gasses escaping prematurely. Fixing after tuning can cause engine failure or fuel/boost cut. 
• Compression Test is an insight into the health of the engine. Doing a compression test prior to spending money on tuning and/or part upgrades is a wise choice. It wouldn't make sense to tune and/or upgrade parts if the engine is hurt. If compression test is bad then further diagnostics is recommended, like a leak down test. 

All 3 tests are recommended annually and/or when the performance appears to have suffered.  I can do these for you if you bring the car to me before I tune your car for $150. 

2. Regular Maintenance

Fresh engine oil (use the weight your builder recommends), up to date maintenance need to be done before tuning. I've seen cracked timing belts, old oil, contaminated oil filled with coolant or fuel, fouled/cracked/damaged plugs, original drivetrain fluids, no drivetrain fluids, bad sensors, CEL on, exhaust in the cab, fuel leaks, bad wiring, bald tires, blown struts, missing lug nuts, electrical shorts/smoke, oil leaks, dead batteries, oil burning, head gasket leaks, etc in cars that I was told is ready to be tuned. A tune can't fix these issues, it may prevent some of these issues. Due another engine oil change and filter after the tune. Just a great preventative measure. When dialing injectors and/or fuel maps for pulls it can be a little rich. This is normal tuning process. The majority of unburnt fuel will go out the exhaust, but some will go into the oil. Also, I recommend frequent OCI with E85 as well as a catch can. 

Evo X owners: You must change your relays with the latest Mitsubishi suggested relay. At the moment it's the Panasonic Orange relay for 3 of them. Change the MFI, fuel pump, injectors and throttle body. The starter relay is optional. I recommend changing these when you do your drivetrain fluids, every 30K miles. Also have an extra set of relays in your glovebox. 

3. Competent Installs

Pay us or another professional to install your parts unless you're competent in doing so. These cars are not the cars to do a first time install. 99% of the cars that I'm given to tune that are "ready" are not ready and need repairs. Fuel system components are not something to take lightly, yet this is the most common area of mistakes. Poor installs can cause serious damage to car, injury and/or death. Eg. fuel pump install may not show itself until after a majority of the tuning is done. Idle and cruise tuning are done first. Most fuel issues show up during WOT tuning. Diagnostics will need to be done ($75/hr), repair and retuning. Generally retunes are based on how much needs to be retuned (generally 50% of the tune). This will be added on to the invoice and tuning will resume on next available appointment. 

4. Safety

Please have your car road worthy. If your wheel bearings are bad, then I'm not going to tune it. If you have missing or broken wheel studs or lug nuts, then please get those fixed. If your tires are dry rotted please get new tires. If you have no seat belts or brakes please fix. I'll be doing WOT pulls. All of the above I have had brought to me to tune. 

5. Road Legal

You need current registration and insurance or temporary tags unless tuning on a dyno. 

6. Specifics

• Evo 4-9 need fresh plugs with a gap of 0.022" for 22 psi or less, 0.020 for 23-25 psi and 0.018" for 26+ psi. Stock plugs for Evo IX's and NGK BPR7ES or BPR8ES depending on build for Evo 4-8. This is the most common issue during power tuning. The gap is 99% too large and didn't follow the above recommendations for spark plug gap. X's plugs seemed to be good right out of the box measuring at 0.020" usually. This is good for up to 35+ psi depending on turbo. NGK ILKR8E6 1422 for 2008-2010. NGK DILKR8B6 91448 2011-2015. Evo X gap is good right out of the box. May need to close gap on high boost applications (35+ psi).  
•  If we are doing a remote tune you will need a wide band installed. I recommend Zeitronix ZT2/ZT3, Innovate or AEM UEGO (30-4110). Some WB will not log with EvoScan (the ones listed will work with EvoScan). Logging software that we'll be using. If doing a road or dyno tune at my location, I have a stand alone wideband. I prefer the Zeitronix wide band. 
• COP ignition systems, like SpoolinUp, are highly recommended on E85 (Evo X comes OEM with a COP). 
• If using an IWG then preload the arm 1/2 eyelet.  
• IWG and EWG have the correct springs in there that equal 60% of the max boost you want. eg. You want 30 psi then you need a 18+ psi spring. Don't use 30 psi of springs as I prefer to drop boost as a fail safe. 
• Engine Oil in stock block see your manual. Synthetic oils are recommended. For built motors, check with your engine builder.